Sailing Jajabor

Well… if seeing is believing then goats grow on trees. You really don’t know what to make of it when you first come across a scene like this. It turns out that goats love the fruit of the Argan trees. These trees grow only in Morocco in the region near Essaouira and Agadir. Their nuts are highly valued to make Argan oil and other edible and cosmetic products. Some say that even Argan nuts in goat poop are collected and used to make Argan oil – myth or fact?

Back in January when our boat was still being prepared, we decided to fly to Marrakech for warmer weather and some sunshine. It also helped to be outside the EU as the Schengen visa only allows non-EU residents 90 days out of 180 and we had already used up half of it. Getting out of the EU would stop our Schengen clock. Going in and out of the EU, to abide by Schengen limits, by sailors, is commonly referred to as the “Schengen Shuffle”. We learned to do this quite well during our stay.

We spent several days in Marrakech and mostly in the Medina. The Medina is a labyrinth of endless number of alleys that lead to other alleys but very few dead ends. It seems that every shop has a dizzying array of artisanal goods. Stop for a moment to glance and you will immediately get pulled into the hustle! Bargaining is a national sport in Morocco and to be expected. And if you want a break from the hustle and bustle of the souks, then pop into one of the many museums, gardens, palaces and madrassas for quiet solitude. Morocco has done an excellent job of restoring many of its monuments which are now listed as UNESCO World Heritage Sites. The photography museum opened a window into pre-20th century Marrakech. The secret garden was particularly restful and surprisingly one of the few places that served beer in their café.

Restored secret garden and palace of a 16th century sultan

Art and photography exhibits

The Medina can also close you in, and very soon we were looking for the vast open spaces of the countryside in Morocco.

The Village of the Family of the Son of the Boss

Is the literal English translation of “Ksar Ait Ben Haddou” said the guide. It is a fortified village along the former caravan route between the Sahara and Marrakech in present-day Morocco. Built sometime in the 17th century, the houses, constructed using rammed earth bricks, are grouped together inside its defensive walls reinforced by corner towers. A big part of the trade was in salt bought with gold. Mediterranean economies were short of gold, but could supply salt, whereas West African countries had plenty of gold but needed salt – for seasoning and preservation.

Very little seems to have changed over the last 400+ years. One look and you are transported centuries back in time. UNESCO recognizes this well preserved village as a World Heritage Site and well over eighteen movies have been shot here including Lawrence of Arabia, Gladiator and Game of Thrones.

Other than a handful of families, most all have moved to the new town across the river (below) which looks quite like the old one – just built of brick and concrete – requiring lot less maintenance.

Mountains, Gorges and the Desert

Morocco is incredibly diverse in its geography for a relatively narrow country. One can ski in Oukaimden in the Atlas mountains, ride a camel in the Sahara in Merzouga or kitesurf on the Atlantic coast in Essaouira!

High Atlas mountains

Todra Gorge is popular among climbers

Sahara in Merzouga

“The camels don’t have names” said the guide and seeing Swagata’s amazed expression offered Ungar and Asgar, supposedly meaning the dark one and the brown one.

Every dromedary got a neck rub from Swagata after bringing us to our camp.

Sunrise and Sunsets are amazing in the Sahara. We stayed in a modest tent camp (no glamping here) with very basic facilities. The ride into camp was a short one with us precariously seated on the dromedaries in a long caravan. It was a cool day to begin with, which turned bitter cold once the sun set. After dinner the Amazigh guides treated us to an incredible drum session of local desert music in front of a roaring bonfire.

Essaouira

Essaouira is my kind of town. Full of Bohemian charm, it is very laid back and has all the old world charm of Marrakech but without the hustle and the crowds. And because of powerful trade winds in the Atlantic, the city’s beaches are ideal for surfing, windsurfing and kitesurfing.

No wonder it has drawn the likes of Jimi Hendrix, The Rolling Stones, Frank Zappa, Bob Morrison, Jefferson Airplane and Cat Stevens for some days of R&R after their high-intensity tours. If I have the opportunity to be in this part of the world again, I will definitely spend more time here. A day trip is just too short.

The old medina with fortified ramparts around it

As you walk along the port, you are struck by the rich blue color of the local fishing boats packed inside. Like a valet parking site, there is clearly a specific way in which these boats are taken out each morning and brought back and moored at the end of the day.

The colorful fishing boats in the port

Being a fishing port, the local fish market is well stocked with the days catch. In fact you can buy fresh fish of your choosing and take it to one of the many restaurants in the medina and they will grill/prepare it for you for a couple dollars.