We have been in Mindelo, Cape Verde for almost 2 months. Not long enough to be part of the community but long enough to feel the community spirit of this small town. Moms chatting as they watch their children play in the park next to the Marina, older kids doing wheelies on their bikes in a vacant parking lot, young boys and girls going through fitness routines with a trainer, weekend impromptu dances in a basketball court – its all become a familiar routine in our daily walks along the waterfront. Even the regular hustlers, targeting tourists, leave us alone and the stray dogs wag their tails when they see us.
We diverted to Mindelo during our Atlantic crossing, because of a faulty rudder bearing that was leaking sea water into our engine compartment. On inspecting the bottom of our boat we discovered we had also lost our portside keel! Dropping a keel in passage is unheard of, and we were left scratching our heads on how this could have happened. Mindelo is not a big shipping destination and so we have to wait for the occasional cargo ship to bring us our replacement keel. While the forced wait and dealing with complicated logistics is frustrating, it gives us the opportunity to truly explore the beauty of Cape Verde in Sao Vicente and the neighboring islands and we have tried to make the most of it.
Mindelo Marina; Most sailboats moored here have some problem that needs fixing or are waiting for appropriate weather before moving on
View from the marina floating bar and restaurant
Mindelo’s rapid growth as a town started in the mid 19th century when it’s port was the coal deposit and fueling point for steam ships of the British East India Company. The old city center buildings have been preserved and in various stages of restoration. In spite of its Portuguese colonial history, Mindelo has a distinct African vibe. The temperatures here can reach 80+ degrees F. during the day, but you rarely feel the heat due to the strong trade winds that blow across the islands.
Tile murals in the African market depict Mindelo as it used to be
(Above) Restored colonial buildings in the historic center
(Below) And some others badly in need of repair
And then there is the modern sun screen addition to the restored National Centre for Art, Crafts and Design building (below)
Our boat life in Mindelo has fallen into a comfortable routine. Most mornings we go for a long walk along the coast, sometimes stopping at a local café for coffee and to people watch. The rest of the day is filled with boat chores and office work, with occasional forays into town to shop for groceries at the local markets. We are a familiar face now for many of the vendors. Each day brings some new discovery in town. After my work day ends, we go out to a local restaurant for a drink and to listen to music. On most days, dinner is on the boat, simple meals prepared from fresh local produce. We eat on the fore deck of our boat watching the sun set and the last ferry coming in from Santo Antao.
(L) Me assembling the water filter on the pontoon
(R) My work space in the port hull
If the island of Santo Antao is the hiking capital of Cape Verde, then the city of Mindelo on Sao Vincente island is surely its cultural capital. Cesária Évora, the Grammy award winning singer-songwriter was born here and spent much of her life on the island before being “found”. Cize as she was commonly known, while exceptional, is representative of the level of musical talent that is prevalent on this island from generations before her.
(L) Mural of Cesária Évora – the barefoot singer from Mindelo
(R) local artists in Casa Mindelo cafe
Virtually every bar and restaurant has amazing live music most days. On any day, we have a choice of over half a dozen performances within a 5 minute walk from our marina!
Markets
In my eternal quest to gather provisions for our soon to be Atlantic Crossing, I must have visited just about every market in town. The local super markets are not as well stocked as other ports we have been to, because almost everything in this island has to be imported. However, the open produce markets are great places to capture a glimpse of local life and stock up on fresh produce. Women with baskets of fresh herbs, bananas, mangos, papayas, and vegetables beckon me to make a purchase. The competition is fierce, as there are many such vendors.
(Above) The formal Municipal Market
(Below) Vegetable and fruit vendors on the street
A trip to the fish market, was fun despite the strong smell of fish for several blocks. Surrounding the fish market along the water front, are fisherfolks salting and drying fish in the age old way.
The fish market (above) is right next to the fisherman’s working beach (below). By mid morning much of the catch was already sold.
Amazing Beaches
The broad beach and surreal waters of Praia de Laghina awaits the few visitors that make it to Mindelo.
Praia de Laghina mid-day (above) and at dusk (below)
Aquatic Center – Mindelo Style
(L) Ocean sized swimming pool with swim lanes for training; tide pools for lounging
(R) And a diving board too!
Cachupa and a Caipirinha Please
When it comes to local foods, Sunil gravitates to his regular order of Cachupa with a glass of Caipirinha. Cachupa is a slow-cooked stew of corn, beans, cassava, sweet potato, fish or meat, and often blood sausage. It is a traditional Cape Verdean dish, served dry or soupy and can be found in most restaurants. The Cape Verdean Caipirinha cocktail is a local version of the popular Brazilian drink. Made using local Grogue (sugarcane rum) with sugar, crushed ice and limes mixed in. It’s limey taste, with just a hint of sugarcane, goes well with a hearty meal like Cachupa.
Street Kids
A sad fact of Mindelo is the poverty that is especially visible in the town center. Children and young adults begging for money, are at every street corner and in front of cafes, restaurants and super markets that cater to tourists. Children who have left their homes and are living on the street, hustle to survive. I spent some time on the internet researching local NGO’s that are trying to help these children, and came across an interesting paper that looks into the children’s motives for leaving their homes and their need for independence. My purpose in writing about this is to acknowledge the poverty that exists here, and my hope is that growth brings opportunities and a better life for the people in this island.
We hope that soon our boat will get fixed and it will be time for us to move on. When that day comes we will be leaving a familiar place that we called home for the past 2 months. The people here are very welcoming and keeping with Cape Verde’s motto – “No Stress” – life here is simple, slow and relaxed. The few islands we visited far exceeded our expectations with their landscapes, culture, activities, food and music. We will leave wanting to be back some time in the future to visit the other islands we missed.
Sailing Jajabor 